Niger-joen varrella.

Nyt tulee sitten tallainen paivakirjaviesti:

Olen nyt Bamakossa kolmatta paivaa, edelleen Niger-joen varrella kuten edellisissa pysahdyspaikoissanikin, Moptissa ja Djennéssa. Yhteensa 4030 km jokea kulkee lahes koko Lansi-Afrikan halki (Guineasta Nigeriaan), ja hallitsee etenkin Malin historiaa ja kaupunkikeskittymia. Joella on jokseenkin samanlainen suhde alueeseen kuin Niililla ja Egyptilla - ilman Nigerin tarjoamia kulku - ja kauppamahdollisuuksia, viljavaa maata ja kalaisaa vetta asutuskeskuksia tuskin olisi syntynyt sen varrelle jo reilut parituhatta vuotta sitten.

Tutustuin Malin arkeologiseen historiaan eilen kansallismuseossa, joka oli varsin epatodellinen kokemus: kauniita, uusia, ilmastoituja rakennuksia vehreassa ymparistossa, kuin ihmeellinen keidas suurkaupungin keskella! Pysyvia nayttelyita oli perati kolme, ja ne olivat hyvin tehtyja - se tosin nakyi myos paasylipun hinnassa, joka oli ei-malilaisille 2500 CFA (noin 4 euroa). Ihana paikka silti. Tuntuu vain niin oudolta loytaa tuollaisia luksuskohteita muuten niin kovin koyhasta, kuivasta ja kuumasta Malista. Olisi varmastikin taysin mahdollista kiertaa kaikki Malin turistikohteet supermukavasti ilmastoiduissa autoissa ja viettaa aikaa hotellien uima-altailla (kuten tein Moptissa "Y a pas de probleme -hotellissa: mahtavaa!). Kieltamatta juuri nyt, sahelilaisessa flunssassa mukava matkailu houkuttaisi. Sen sijaan huomenaamulla odottaa 1300 kilometrin bussimatka Dakariin...odotettu kesto 26-36 tuntia, amerikkalaispariskunnalla matka oli kestanyt 80 tuntia. Olisin halunnut ottaa junan ainakin osaksi matkaa, mutta tiedustelu juna-asemalla oli seuraavanlainen:

Riikka: "Haluaisin kysella juna-aikatauluista."
Virkailija: "Juna Dakarista ei ole viela palannut."
R: "Niin, mutta milloin on seuraava juna Kayesiin (lahelle Mali-Senegal -rajaa) tai Dakariin?
V: "Jaa, Kayesiin vai? Huomenillalla, tule ostamaan lippu aamulla."
R: "Mihin aikaan huomenillalla? Ja milloin on sita seuraava juna?"
V: "Ehka noin klo 19, riippuu vahan. Seuraavan junan pitaisi lahtea sunnuntaiaamuna, mutta jos se on myohassa tai tippunut raiteilta, niin se lahtee ehka vasta sunnuntai-iltana."

Jotenkin tuo keskustelu (joka jatkui viela tuokion) ei rohkaissut minua valitsemaan junaa. Ehka sitten joskus, seuraavalla kerralla...

Comments

Anonymous said…
Hello Riikka,
Take care of you during the bus trip through Africa...after your discussion with the railway clerks, we are sure you made a right decision.
We think of you....while flying to New York this week.
Anne & Kjell
10 March, 2007 21:00
Anonymous said…
Mahtavaa keskustelua Riikka! Oletko varma että bussi on kuitenkaan turvallisempi?

Tuo upouusi museo keskellä köyhyyttä kiinnitti huomioni Turfanissa syksyllä, vaikka Kiina ei olekaan erityisen köyhä maa. Kyseinen keidas on vain keskellä autiomaata, joten olin odottanut (ehkä naiivisti) jotain vähemmän kiinalaista...
11 March, 2007 13:56
Riikka said…
No, bussimatka kesti lopulta lahes tarkalleen 48 tuntia, tosin melkein puolet siita oli odottelua (yo tuolla Kayesissa, lisaksi rajalla ja tullissa vierahti useampi tunti...). Meidan bussimme oli onneksi uudempaa ja onnekkaampaa mallia, silla yksi ranskalaispariskunta oli saanut testata jo neljaa eri (hajoavaa) kulkuneuvoa ennen siirtymistaan meidan bussiyhtiomme asiakkaaksi.

Mahtavaa olla Senegalissa. Tosin "vain" 29 asteen lampotila yhdistettyna merituuleen viluttaa...
13 March, 2007 22:57
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