Musical experiences in West Africa.
West Africa can be either a paradise or hell for music lovers, depending on your taste and sensibility. Finnish composers in Villa Karo certainly suffered from the constant sound of music everywhere: it seems that the only acceptable volume is the maximum volume...but that's what many Beninese said several times: there cannot be a party without music, and preferably very loud music!
I didn't actually know that much about West African music before coming here. Of course the biggest stars, such as Youssou N'Dour, Salif Keita, Ali Farka Touré, Rokia Traoré or Amadou & Mariam were familiar to me. But very often, especially outside the most famous countries of African music (Senegal and Mali) people listen to artists we have never even heard of in Europe. Not that many people like Angélique Kidjo, for example - the most well-known Beninese artist abroad (and also living abroad, most of the time).Instead they prefer Petit Miguelito (the 20-year-old son of the famous musician, Gnonnas Pedro, who played in a salsa group Africando), Gbessi Zolawadji (traditional music from Southern Benin) or Roi Alikpehanou (one of the kings in Abomey, or something like that). Music which fills the dancefloors in discos is often something originating from Cote d'Ivoire: zouk (for slow couple dancing), coupé décalé (with twist-like movements), wolosso (with moves that I don't dare to describe here), or salsa. I'm carrying quite a bunch of CDs with or without music videos to Finland, so anyone willing to initiate him/herself into West African popular music is welcomed!
That for the music I've heard coming out of loudspeakers. Besides recorded music, I've been exposed to a lot of live music, too. Numerous concerts of djembe & other drums with varying artistic quality, official and unofficial concerts in cultural centres, concert venues, stadiums or people's homes. On my veranda, for example. At some point it felt like the whole population of Grand-Popo had a bit of musician in them: suddenly almost the whole staff of Villa Karo could jump on the stage, forming an ad-hoc music group - many people hide their talent. Unfortunately often those without much talent love performing (saw numerous not-so-excellent groups performing in Burkina, Mali, Senegal...).
Some concerts from my West African tour:
Lomé, Togo. Le Mandingue Bar Jazz Club.
A very professional, Western influenced group was playing mostly salsa music. There was only one changement in the program, when a Frenchman - who apparently could sing & play guitar fairly well - hopped on the stage, doing a Noir Désir cover song and some other French/American rock songs.
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. La maison du peuple.
I actually went to find an African dance class at the People's House, and noticed while being there that loads of vendors and other Burkinabé people, both young and old were gathering outside the impressive building. I was being told that it was a concert night: traditional Mossi music. I had no idea what that meant, but since the entrance fee was only 500 CFA (0,8 €), I decided to go and have a look. The place was packed, with at least 2000 - 3000 people, out of which maybe five were white. I was thus greeted with a benevolent laugh and several yells of "nassara! (white)", when I entered the audience...I was also asked whether I speak Moré (the language of the Mossi people), because the artists which were about to perform were singing in Moré, and it would be important to understand the stories and praises they were singing. Well, I missed that part without a translator...but had a great time just following the reactions of the audience. The woman next to me was almost constantly commenting something on the lyrics and giggling by herself - I don't think I have ever seen people laugh that much in a concert! Many people went to the stage to sollicit the griots for their excellent performances: throwing money (anything from coins to several 10 000 CFA bills) to them, or jewellery to female singers. According to my dear guidebook for West Africa, Rough Guide, women are considered to be better singers and they can receive gifts such as planes or houses from extatic fans, touched by their performance.
Bamako, Mali. Le Hogon.
A bar owned by a kora virtuose Toumani Diabaté was quite full of mixed crowd when the master himself was playing, as he does every Friday night. Excellent concert, excellent music for dancing, too (one of the drummer's kept coming and demanding me to dance, as well). There were about four different singers who conquered the stage with their voices. Highly recommended place for those who want to hear some good Malian music!
Dakar, Senegal. Centre Culturel Français Léopold Sédar Sénghor.
An Ivoirian artist, Dobet Gnahoré was doing a West African tour in French Cultural Centres when I was in Dakar. I hadn't heard about her before, but thought I could check it out anyway. She had a very skillful world music band playing, with musicians from Togo, France, Spain and South Africa. Her voice and songs reminded me a lot of Angélique Kidjo, such as also the fact that she was singing in several different languages: at least Baoulé, Bambara, Malinké, Fon and Mina were mentioned. Nice music, a very charming singer/dancer, but somehow very Western oriented. Like the audience, too: I noted that maybe 10 percent of the listeners were black, and all the rest were French, American...and at least one Finnish :) The price of the ticket explains the missing of Senegalese spectators: 3000 CFA is quite a lot when most people earn something like 40 000 CFA per month. I find it a bit disturbing that the CCFs (Centre Culturel Français) charge so much, also for the use of library or for the drinks in the bar. It's almost like they wouldn't want any Africans there: CCF is mostly a place for ex-pats to "discover African culture". Villa Karo is at least doing something right, while offering free concerts and cinema for free, for the local people!
Dakar, again. Just4You and Pen'art Jazz Club.
Orchestra Baobab, a famous salsa group had been programmed for a bar called Just4You, opposite the Cheick Anta Diop University campus. It sounded like a good occasion for my last Saturday night in Africa so far! Unfortunately the concert was cancelled, so we headed for a bar close by, since they had also scheduled a concert. It was also a Senegalese top artist, Cheick Lô, who was playing there. Excellent jazz/reggae/whatever mélange, although I started be a bit tired after spending most of the day in a minibus from St-Louis to Dakar...
But in the end, all these fine, big concerts were not the highlights of my musical memories. What I will remember with most warmth are those moments in Grand-Popo, when friends or acquaintesces spontaneously started singing and playing with kitchen utensils (kettles, forks, whatever) or their bodies (tapping the chest, for example). Sweet memories for which I have to thank people: Victor, Papa, Felix, Gildas, Alfa, and all the others in Grand-Popo. Akpé kaka loo!
I didn't actually know that much about West African music before coming here. Of course the biggest stars, such as Youssou N'Dour, Salif Keita, Ali Farka Touré, Rokia Traoré or Amadou & Mariam were familiar to me. But very often, especially outside the most famous countries of African music (Senegal and Mali) people listen to artists we have never even heard of in Europe. Not that many people like Angélique Kidjo, for example - the most well-known Beninese artist abroad (and also living abroad, most of the time).Instead they prefer Petit Miguelito (the 20-year-old son of the famous musician, Gnonnas Pedro, who played in a salsa group Africando), Gbessi Zolawadji (traditional music from Southern Benin) or Roi Alikpehanou (one of the kings in Abomey, or something like that). Music which fills the dancefloors in discos is often something originating from Cote d'Ivoire: zouk (for slow couple dancing), coupé décalé (with twist-like movements), wolosso (with moves that I don't dare to describe here), or salsa. I'm carrying quite a bunch of CDs with or without music videos to Finland, so anyone willing to initiate him/herself into West African popular music is welcomed!
That for the music I've heard coming out of loudspeakers. Besides recorded music, I've been exposed to a lot of live music, too. Numerous concerts of djembe & other drums with varying artistic quality, official and unofficial concerts in cultural centres, concert venues, stadiums or people's homes. On my veranda, for example. At some point it felt like the whole population of Grand-Popo had a bit of musician in them: suddenly almost the whole staff of Villa Karo could jump on the stage, forming an ad-hoc music group - many people hide their talent. Unfortunately often those without much talent love performing (saw numerous not-so-excellent groups performing in Burkina, Mali, Senegal...).
Some concerts from my West African tour:
Lomé, Togo. Le Mandingue Bar Jazz Club.
A very professional, Western influenced group was playing mostly salsa music. There was only one changement in the program, when a Frenchman - who apparently could sing & play guitar fairly well - hopped on the stage, doing a Noir Désir cover song and some other French/American rock songs.
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. La maison du peuple.
I actually went to find an African dance class at the People's House, and noticed while being there that loads of vendors and other Burkinabé people, both young and old were gathering outside the impressive building. I was being told that it was a concert night: traditional Mossi music. I had no idea what that meant, but since the entrance fee was only 500 CFA (0,8 €), I decided to go and have a look. The place was packed, with at least 2000 - 3000 people, out of which maybe five were white. I was thus greeted with a benevolent laugh and several yells of "nassara! (white)", when I entered the audience...I was also asked whether I speak Moré (the language of the Mossi people), because the artists which were about to perform were singing in Moré, and it would be important to understand the stories and praises they were singing. Well, I missed that part without a translator...but had a great time just following the reactions of the audience. The woman next to me was almost constantly commenting something on the lyrics and giggling by herself - I don't think I have ever seen people laugh that much in a concert! Many people went to the stage to sollicit the griots for their excellent performances: throwing money (anything from coins to several 10 000 CFA bills) to them, or jewellery to female singers. According to my dear guidebook for West Africa, Rough Guide, women are considered to be better singers and they can receive gifts such as planes or houses from extatic fans, touched by their performance.
Bamako, Mali. Le Hogon.
A bar owned by a kora virtuose Toumani Diabaté was quite full of mixed crowd when the master himself was playing, as he does every Friday night. Excellent concert, excellent music for dancing, too (one of the drummer's kept coming and demanding me to dance, as well). There were about four different singers who conquered the stage with their voices. Highly recommended place for those who want to hear some good Malian music!
Dakar, Senegal. Centre Culturel Français Léopold Sédar Sénghor.
An Ivoirian artist, Dobet Gnahoré was doing a West African tour in French Cultural Centres when I was in Dakar. I hadn't heard about her before, but thought I could check it out anyway. She had a very skillful world music band playing, with musicians from Togo, France, Spain and South Africa. Her voice and songs reminded me a lot of Angélique Kidjo, such as also the fact that she was singing in several different languages: at least Baoulé, Bambara, Malinké, Fon and Mina were mentioned. Nice music, a very charming singer/dancer, but somehow very Western oriented. Like the audience, too: I noted that maybe 10 percent of the listeners were black, and all the rest were French, American...and at least one Finnish :) The price of the ticket explains the missing of Senegalese spectators: 3000 CFA is quite a lot when most people earn something like 40 000 CFA per month. I find it a bit disturbing that the CCFs (Centre Culturel Français) charge so much, also for the use of library or for the drinks in the bar. It's almost like they wouldn't want any Africans there: CCF is mostly a place for ex-pats to "discover African culture". Villa Karo is at least doing something right, while offering free concerts and cinema for free, for the local people!
Dakar, again. Just4You and Pen'art Jazz Club.
Orchestra Baobab, a famous salsa group had been programmed for a bar called Just4You, opposite the Cheick Anta Diop University campus. It sounded like a good occasion for my last Saturday night in Africa so far! Unfortunately the concert was cancelled, so we headed for a bar close by, since they had also scheduled a concert. It was also a Senegalese top artist, Cheick Lô, who was playing there. Excellent jazz/reggae/whatever mélange, although I started be a bit tired after spending most of the day in a minibus from St-Louis to Dakar...
But in the end, all these fine, big concerts were not the highlights of my musical memories. What I will remember with most warmth are those moments in Grand-Popo, when friends or acquaintesces spontaneously started singing and playing with kitchen utensils (kettles, forks, whatever) or their bodies (tapping the chest, for example). Sweet memories for which I have to thank people: Victor, Papa, Felix, Gildas, Alfa, and all the others in Grand-Popo. Akpé kaka loo!
Comments
Nice running into you yesterday at the library ;)
I'll read your blog -even a bit "jälkijunassa". Let's keep in touch!
//a